You might wanna call it a Labor Day weekend; but for California Surfers its a workday. Last night Lawrence called up to ask if am up for Surfing; how couldn't i tell him that this is what I wanted more than anything else for this weekend.This wednesday a shark attack in Monterey; very close to the beach where we usually surf, left one guy badly injured and the beaches to 15 miles are close for 2 weeks. So we decided to surf at Pacifica; which is at the same coastline of famous Highway 1; a little further north. I wasn't sure if am gonna see lot of people; but its California baby- there were like close to a hundred surfers on that beach; more-so because the authorities declared beaches down south unsafe after the incident. We took a corner behind the Surf shop few hundred meters from the public parking to avoid the crowd and got a lot of waves to ourselves.
Today the day was like God watching and praising the spirit of Californians - a SSW swell brought in the perfect surfing condition with 3-6 foot wave; and everyone got a taste of what they came for.
I'll be out in water tomorrow a little early to get more space for myself.
1 comment:
thru ur blogs one can really feel and experience the pleasure of ur adventure they miss out in their lives....its not real feel but close enough........lucky u. Keep writing..wish cud exchange places
Post a Comment