You might wanna call it a Labor Day weekend; but for California Surfers its a workday. Last night Lawrence called up to ask if am up for Surfing; how couldn't i tell him that this is what I wanted more than anything else for this weekend.This wednesday a shark attack in Monterey; very close to the beach where we usually surf, left one guy badly injured and the beaches to 15 miles are close for 2 weeks. So we decided to surf at Pacifica; which is at the same coastline of famous Highway 1; a little further north. I wasn't sure if am gonna see lot of people; but its California baby- there were like close to a hundred surfers on that beach; more-so because the authorities declared beaches down south unsafe after the incident. We took a corner behind the Surf shop few hundred meters from the public parking to avoid the crowd and got a lot of waves to ourselves.
Today the day was like God watching and praising the spirit of Californians - a SSW swell brought in the perfect surfing condition with 3-6 foot wave; and everyone got a taste of what they came for.
I'll be out in water tomorrow a little early to get more space for myself.
